Exfoliation can be a tricky thing to get right. That’s why I adore the way ours can be customised – so you can do you, girl. Different skin types need different levels of exfoliation. Here’s my take on it…
Normal, healthy skin naturally exfoliates itself, so manual exfoliation is only required technically once per month depending on the health of your skin, your age, your diet, your lifestyle etc. Our skin only naturally exfoliates itself if our barrier is functioning properly, and doing its job of producing enzymes that tear about the desmosomes that keep dead skin cells (corneocytes, that make up the outer layer of the skin AKA stratum corneum) together. This process requires a healthy lipid bilayer, acid mantle and skin pH.
Many exfoliating products work against the function of a healthy barrier, creating more damage, moisture loss and even microtears in the skin. Those who are at risk of over-exoliating are those with congested acne-prone skin, which means your barrier, acid mantle and skin pH are already compromised. Compromising it further with over-exofliation and harsh ingredients worsens the problem.
Inflamed, cystic skin needs exfoliation no more than once per fortnight – especially if your skin feels sore. If it’s sore, I prefer to leave it alone for at least a month before adding in exfoliation again (though remember this is when I’m working with people at The Acne & Eczema Clinic).
If you have congestive skin problems, you might be blemish-prone or prone to acne. This can happen for a few reasons.
- Hyperkeratinisation - this is where the top dead skin cells called corneocytes don’t shed properly. It happens when the skin barrier is impaired which can happen for several reasons. When these dead cells don’t shed properly, they can cause blockages in the pores which can contribute to breakouts. It can also slow down sebum flow, causing non-inflammatory whiteheads or little bumps where you might find chunky congestion.
- Sebum quality - sebum (AKA skin oil) along with the mechanical turnover of our skin cells is what allows us to push things out of the skin. This is an important function to avoid congestion. Essential fatty acids and omega-3 can be used here to help improve sebum quality.
If you have hyperkeratinisation, or feel that your skin is brighter and less problematic with regular exfoliation, then I’d encourage you to use this Vitamin Exfoliant Blend once a week at the most. My ideal recommendation is once per fortnight for congestive skin, and only once a month on healthy skin (if at all).
If you have drier skin, exfoliation can help to reinvigorate the skin. If you’re exfoliating too regularly, you may notice skin flaking/peeling and a feeling of tightness. I recommend exfoliation once a month for this skin type.
If I’m just maintaining my skin health, I usually only exfoliate once a month. In the warmer months where my skin is producing more sebum, I exfoliate a little more frequently where I need to, but only on the problem areas around the nasal flares where I will get more sebum build up and potential pimples (thanks to living in Far North QLD, where your skin is constantly sweating and oil regulation goes out the window). I love being able to adjust how much I am using to achieve a different level of exfoliation. I usually only use about half a pinky finger-nail amount, which means one vial lasts me about the year!
I mix up my cleansers because I like to be able to use a gel or cream cleanser depending on how my skin is feeling that day. I use a little more of the Vitamin Exfoliant Blend in the Restore Botanical Cream Cleanser as it’s a heavier cleanser, and I can safely use more product because of the protective ingredients in it.
Remember that excessive and harsh exfoliation will damage your skin’s function. Go gently, girl. Less is usually more. And, no, you shouldn’t be exfoliating every night! This just further irritates a damaged barrier.
Please also remember that exfoliation should be avoided if you are experiencing eczema. You should be looking at the Phytonutrient Oil Cleanser instead because your dry and flaking skin is asking for hydration, not for cells to be stripped away.
